FAQ
Common Questions we get asked that you can try fix yourself before you call us
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RT Appliance Repairs
ABN: 989 579 898 473
Office Number
Repairs Enquiry?
Brisbane & Northern Suburbs
AREAS WE COVER
$44.00 TRAVEL FEE WILL APPLY
4008 BRISBANE AIRPORT – PINKINBA
4009 EAGLE FARM
4010 ALBION
4011 CLAYFIELD – HENDRA
4012 WAVELL HEIGHTS NORTH – WAVELL HEIGHTS – NUNDAH – TOOMBUL
4013 NORTHGATE
4014 NUDGEE BEACH – NUDGEE BEACH – VIRGINIA – BANYO
4017 BRIGHTON EVENTIDE – BRIGHTON – SANDGATE – SHORNCLIFFE – DEAGON – BRCKEN RIDGE
4018 FITZGIBBOB – TAIGUM
4019 MARGATE BEACH – MARGATE – WOODY POINT – CLONTARF BEACH – CLONTARF
4020 SCARBOROUGH – NEWPORT – REDCLIFFE
4021 KIPPA-RING
4022 ROTHWELL
4030 WOOLOOWIN – LUTWYCHE – WINDSOR
4031 KEDRON 4031 GORDON PARK
4032 CHERMSIDE CENTRE – CHERMSIDE – CHERMSIDE WEST – CHERMSIDE SOUTH
4034 BOONDALL – CARSELDINE – ZILLMERE – ASPLEY – GEEBUNG
4035 ALBANY CREEK – BRIDGEMAN DOWNS
4036 BALD HILLS
4037 EATONS HILL
4051 GAYTHORNE – GRANGE – ALDERLEY – ENOGGERA – WILSTON – NEWMARKET
4053 MCDOWALL – STAFFORD HEIGHTS – EVERTON HILLS – STAFFORD HEIGHTS – EVERTON PARK – BROOKSIDE CENTRE – MITCHELTON
4054 ARANA HILLS – KEPERRA
4055 BUNYA – FERNY HILLS – FERNY GROVE – UPPER KEDRON
4059 KELVIN GROVE – RED HILL
4060 ASHGROVE EAST – ASHGROVE – ASHGROVE WEST
4061 THE GAP
4064 PADDINGTON – MILTON
4065 BARDON
4500 JOYNER – BRAY PARK – STRATHPINE – STRATHPINE CENTRE – WARNER – BRENDALE – CASHMERE – CLEAR MOUNTIN
4501 LAWNTON
4502 PETRIE
4503 KURWONGBAH – KALLANGUR – DAKABIN – WHITESIDE – MURRUMBA DOWNS
4504 NARANGBA
4505 BURPENGARY – BURPENGARY EAST
4506 MORAYFIELD – MOORINA
4507 BRIBIE ISLAND NORTH – BRIBIE ISLAND – WHITE PATCH – WELSBY – BANKSIA BEACH – BELLARA – BOONGAREE – WOORIM
4508 DECEPTION BAY
4509 MANGO HILL – NORTH LAKES
4510 DONNYBROOK – MOODLU – MELDALE – BELLMERE – CABOOLTURE SOUTH – ROCKSBERG – UPPER CABOOLTURE – BEACHMERE – CABOOLTURE SOUTH
4510 TOORBUL
4511 NINGI – GODWIN BEACH – SANDSTONE POINT
4512 BRACALBA – WAMURAN – WAMURAN BASIN
4514 – WOODFORD – DÁGUILAR – DAGUILAR
4514 COMMISSIONERS FLAT – CEDARTON – STANMORE – BELLTHORPE – STONY CREEK – NEURUM – MOUNT ARCHER – DELANEYS CREEK – VILLENEUVE – MOUNT DELANEY
4515 SANDY CREEK – ROYSTON – MOUNT KILCOY – WINYA – GLENFERN – KILCOY – SHEEP STATION CREEK – WOOLMAR – HAZELDEAN
4516 ELIMBAH
Sunshine Coast Suburbs
AREAS WE COVER
$44.00 TRAVEL FEE WILL APPLY
4517 BEERBURRUM
4518 GLASS HOUSE MOUNTAINS
4519 CROHAMHURST – PEACHESTER – BEERWAH – COOCHIN CREEK
4520 ARMSTRONG CREEK – HGHVALE – SAMFORD VALLEY – SAMFORD VILLAGE – SAMFORD – CEDAR CREEK
4521 CAMPBELLS POCKET – MOUNT MEE – OCEAN VIEW – KING SCRUB – MOUNT PLEASANT – RUSH CREEK – DAYBORO – LACEYS CREEK
4550 MOUNT MELLUM – LANDSBOROUGH
4551 BELLS CREEK – MERIDAN PLAINS – LITTLE MOUNTAIN – PELICAN WATERS – CALOUNDRA WEST – AROONA – GOLDEN BEACH – CURRIMUNDI – CALOUNDRA – DICKY BEACH – BATTERY HILL – KINGS BEACH – MOFFAT BEACH – SHELLY BEACH
4553 DIAMOND VALLEY – MOOLOOLAH – MOOLOOLAH VALLEY – GLENVIEW – PALMVIEW
4554 EUDLO – ILKEY
4555 LANDERS SHOOT – HUNCHY – PALMWOODS – CHEVALLUM
4556 TANAWHA – MONS – SIPPY DOWNS – FOREST GLEN – BUDERIM – KUNDA PARK
4557 MOUNTAIN CREEK – MOOLOOLABA
4558 KULUIN – SHINSHINE PLAZA – MAROOCHYDORE – MAROOCHYDORE BC – COTTON TREE
4559 WOOMBYE
4559 KIELS MOUNTAIN – DIDDILLIBAH
4560 – BURNSIDE – NAMBOUR WEST – HIGHWORTH – BLI BLI – KULANGOOR – KIAMBA – COOLOOLABIN
4561 MAROOCHY RIVER- YANDINA – VALDORA – NINDERRY – BRIDGES – YANDINA CREEK – NORTH ARM
4562 EERWAH VALVE – BELLI PARK – EUMUNDI – VERRIERDALE – DOONAN – WEYBA DOWNS
4563 RIDGEWOOD- CARTERS RIDGE – COOROY MOUNTAIN – BLACK MOUNTAIN – COOROY – TINBEERWAH – LAKE MCDONALD
4564 TWIN WATERS – PACIFIC PARADISE – MUDJIMBA – MARCOOLA
4565 TEWANTIN
4566 NOOSAVILLE
4567 CASTAWAYS BEACH – SUNRISE BEACH – SUNSHINE BEACH – NOOSA HEADS
4572 ALEXANDRA HEADLAND
4573 MOUNT COOLUM – YAROOMBA – POINT ARKWRIGHT – COOLUM BEACH – PERIGIAN SPRINGS – PERIGIAN BEACH – MARCUS BEACH
4575 BIRTINYA – WURTULLA – BOKARINA – WARANA – PARREARRA – MINYAMA – BUDDINA
Top Load Washing Machine
- How to Fix Black Oil Stains on Clothes Caused by Your Washer
Step 1: Unplug the Washer For safety, unplug your washing machine from the power supply before you begin any cleaning.
Step 2: Identify the Cause Black oil stains on your clothes are often caused by:
Excess detergent (soap powder or liquid).
Fabric softener.
Liquid soap, which is harder to dissolve and can leave a build-up.
Over time, soap residue can build up on the outside of the inner bowl of the washer. This residue turns black and is released onto your clothes during the wash, leaving oily-looking spots or marks.
Step 3: Clean the Drum To clean the drum and remove the buildup:
Fill the Drum: Set your washer to the highest water level and choose the hot water setting.
Add Vinegar: Pour 2 cups of white vinegar into the drum.
Pause the Cycle: Once the washer has filled, pause the cycle and let the water sit for 1 hour. This will allow the vinegar to break down the soap residue.
Restart the Cycle: After the hour is up, press start to complete the wash cycle.
Step 4: Repeat if Needed If the drum is still dirty or showing signs of buildup, you may need to run this cycle a few times to fully clean the washer.
Step 5: Use a Washing Machine Descaler (Optional) If vinegar alone doesn’t solve the problem, consider using a washing machine descaler. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions carefully to descale your machine.
Step 6: Prevent Future Buildup Once the drum is clean, you’ll need to maintain it to prevent future issues:
Use Less Detergent: We recommend using 1/4 scoop of powder or 1/4 cap of liquid soap per load.
Switch to Vinegar: Ditch fabric softener and use white vinegar as a natural fabric softener instead. Add 1/4 cup to the rinse cycle.
Wash Towels and Linens in Warm Water: Wash towels and bed linens in warm water, and all other clothes in cold water to help keep the washer clean.
Step 7: Professional Cleaning (If Needed) If you continue to experience black oil stains or buildup in your washer, you may need to have the drum stripped and manually cleaned by a professional.
If you’d like us to help, provide us with your washer’s make and model, and we can give you an estimated price and order the necessary parts ahead of time for a first-time fix.
Disclaimer: This advice is for general guidance only. Proceeding with these steps is at your own risk. Electrical or gas work must only be carried out by a licensed, trained technician. - How to Fix a Washer That Won’t Drain
Step 1: Unplug the Washer For safety, unplug your washing machine from the power supply before performing any maintenance.
Step 2: Remove Excess Water If your washer has standing water in the drum, start by removing as much water as possible:
If you have a wet and dry vacuum, use it to suck out the water.
Alternatively, you can scoop the water out manually using a cup or small container.
Step 3: Locate the Drain Filter Pull the washer out from its space and check the rear or sides (left or right) for a black or white cap that can be unscrewed. This is often the drain filter.
Step 4: Prepare for Water Spillage Be ready for a large amount of water to come out when you unscrew the cap. Ensure you have plenty of towels ready to soak up the water.
Step 5: Drain the Water
Place a baking tray or shallow container under the cap to catch the water.
Unscrew the cap slowly, allowing a small amount of water to flow out at a time. Once the water starts to flow, tighten the cap slightly to stop the flow.
Keep tightening the cap and emptying the tray until the water stops flowing completely.
Step 6: Clean the Filter Once the water has stopped flowing:
Remove the cap and clean the filter. Remove any debris or build-up.
Look inside the hole where the cap came out. Make sure it is clean and clear of any blockages.
If you can see the impeller (the part that helps pump water out), ensure it turns freely without obstruction.
Step 7: Reassemble and Test
Once everything is clean, refit the cap tightly.
Plug the washer back in and test it to see if the unit now drains properly.
Step 8: Call for Service (If Needed) If your washer still doesn’t drain after completing the above steps, there may be a deeper issue requiring professional attention. Contact us for a service call to resolve the issue.
Disclaimer: This advice is for general guidance only. Proceeding with these steps is at your own risk. Electrical or gas work must only be carried out by a licensed, trained technician. - How to Fix a Washer That Keeps Going Off Balance
Step 1: Unplug the Washer For safety, unplug your washing machine from the power supply before making any adjustments.
Step 2: Check if the Washer is Level The most common cause of an off-balance washer is that it’s not level. To check:
Rock the Washer: Gently rock the machine to see if it moves. If it does, it’s not level.
Use a Level: Place a level on top of the washer to check if it’s balanced from left to right.
Step 3: Level the Washer If the washer is not level, follow these steps:
Adjust the Feet: Most washers have adjustable legs.
Screw in or out the front legs to adjust the washer’s balance.
If it’s still rocking, try adjusting the rear legs instead, winding them out by at least three full turns to raise the back of the washer.
Check Again with the Level: After adjusting, check with the level again to ensure the washer is level from left to right and no longer rocking.
Step 4: Test the Washer Plug the washer back in and run a test cycle. Does the washer still go off balance? If it’s working properly now, you’re done!
Step 5: Persistent Off-Balance Issues If your washer still goes off balance after leveling it:
Shock Absorbers: The likely issue is that your shock absorbers (which stabilize the drum) may need replacing.
Book a Service: You will need to book a service to inspect and potentially replace the shock absorbers.
Step 6: Provide Make and Model for Service To help speed up the process, provide us with your washer’s make and model. This allows us to:
Provide you with an estimated price.
Order the parts ahead of time, ensuring a first-time fix when we arrive.
Disclaimer: This advice is for general guidance only. Proceeding with these steps is at your own risk. Electrical or gas work must only be carried out by a licensed, trained technician.
Front Load Washing Machine
- How to Fix Black Oil Stains on Clothes from Your Washing Machine
Step 1: Disconnect Power Before you begin, unplug your washing machine from the power supply to ensure safety during the process.
Step 2: Identify the Cause Black oil stains on clothes are often caused by an accumulation of excess detergent or fabric softener. This can occur if:
Too much soap powder or liquid soap is used.
Fabric softener is applied in excess.
Liquid soap, being more difficult to dissolve, can leave a buildup that coats the inner drum of the washer. Over time, this buildup turns black and can transfer onto your clothes during washing.
Step 3: Clean the Washer Drum To clean the drum and remove the buildup:
Add Vinegar: Pour 2 cups of white vinegar into the drum.
Set Washer to Longest Cycle: Choose the longest wash cycle with the hottest water setting (60°C or higher).
Start the Cycle: Let the washer run through the full cycle. This should help break down the detergent and softener buildup.
Step 4: Repeat if Necessary If the drum still shows signs of buildup, repeat the process. For particularly stubborn buildup, you may need to run the cycle 2-3 times.
Step 5: Use a Descaler (Optional) If vinegar doesn’t fully resolve the issue, you can use a washing machine descaler. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for best results.
Step 6: Prevent Future Buildup After cleaning the drum, you’ll want to maintain it to prevent the issue from happening again. Here are a few tips:
Use Less Detergent: Only use 1/4 of a scoop of powder or 1/4 cap of liquid detergent per load. Overuse of soap is a common culprit for buildup.
Ditch Fabric Softener: Instead of fabric softener, use white vinegar as a natural softener. Add 1/4 cup to the rinse cycle.
Wash Regularly: Wash towels and bed linens in warm water and all other items in cold water. This will help prevent detergent buildup and keep your washer clean.
Step 7: Professional Cleaning (If Needed) If you continue to experience problems, you can contact a professional technician to strip and manually clean the drum.
Disclaimer: This advice is for general guidance only. Electrical or gas work must be carried out by a licensed technician. Always proceed with caution and follow safety instructions. - Troubleshooting a Washer That Won’t Drain or Spin
Step 1: Unplug the Washer Before you begin, unplug your washing machine from the power supply to ensure safety.
Step 2: Remove Excess Water If there’s still water in the drum, the first step is to drain it. If you have a wet and dry vacuum, use it to suck the water out. To do this:
Attach the vacuum hose to the washer’s drain hose.
Turn on the vacuum and let it remove as much water as possible.
Step 3: Locate the Drain Filter Look at the front lower part of your washing machine. You should see a flap door or cover. Open it to reveal the drain filter, which is typically a black or white cap.
Step 4: Prepare for Water Spillage When you open the cap, there may be a significant amount of water still inside the drum. Make sure you’re ready with plenty of towels to soak up any spills.
Step 5: Drain the Water Slowly
Place a baking tray or shallow container under the cap to catch any remaining water.
Slowly unscrew the filter cap. Let a small amount of water trickle out into the baking tray, then tighten the cap again.
Repeat the process—unscrewing to let the water flow, tightening it, and emptying the tray—until no more water comes out.
Step 6: Clean the Filter Once the water has stopped flowing, remove the filter and clean it thoroughly. Check inside the hole where the filter came out to make sure it’s clear of debris.
If you can see the impeller (the spinning part that helps with draining), ensure it turns freely without any obstructions.
Step 7: Reassemble and Test
Once everything is clean, screw the filter cap back on tightly.
Plug the washing machine back in and run a test cycle to check if the washer drains and spins correctly.
Step 8: Call for Service (If Needed) If your washer still doesn’t drain or spin properly after this process, it may require professional service. Contact a technician for further diagnosis.
Disclaimer: This advice is for general guidance only. Proceeding with these steps is at your own risk. Electrical or gas work should only be carried out by a licensed and trained technician. - Troubleshooting a Washer That Keeps Going Off Balance
Step 1: Unplug the Washer For safety, unplug your washing machine from the power supply before you start any maintenance.
Step 2: Check If the Washer is Level A common cause of off-balance issues is an uneven washer. To check:
Inspect the washer’s legs: Most washing machines have adjustable legs/feet that can be screwed in or out.
Rock the Washer: Try gently rocking the washer from side to side. If it moves or wobbles, the machine is not level.
Step 3: Level the Washer To fix the imbalance:
Use a level: Place a level on top of the washer to check the alignment.
Adjust the legs: If the washer rocks, adjust the legs by screwing them in or out to ensure it’s level both front-to-back and left-to-right.
Check corner-to-corner: Once adjusted, check each corner with the level to make sure the washer is perfectly balanced and no longer rocking.
Step 4: Test the Washer After leveling the washer, plug it back in and run a test cycle. Does it remain balanced throughout the wash and spin cycle? If so, you’re all set!
Step 5: Persistent Off-Balance Issues? If the washer continues to go off balance even after leveling:
Shock Absorbers May Be Faulty: The likely cause could be worn or damaged shock absorbers that help stabilize the drum during washing and spinning.
Book a Service Appointment: If this is the case, you’ll need to schedule a service.
Step 6: Service Preparation If you provide your washer’s make and model, we can:
Offer an estimated price for the required parts.
Order the parts ahead of time, allowing us to do a first-time fix when we come out to service your washer.
Disclaimer: This advice is for general guidance only. Proceeding with these steps is at your own risk. Electrical or gas work must only be performed by a licensed, trained technician. - How to Clean a Mouldy Door Seal on Your Washing Machine
Step 1: Unplug the Washer For safety, unplug your washing machine from the power supply before starting.
Step 2: Wear Protective Gear Mould cleaning can involve harsh chemicals, so wear gloves, safety glasses, and a mask throughout the process to protect yourself from any potential hazards.
Step 3: Make the Cleaning Paste
Prepare a cleaning paste by mixing 1 cup of bicarbonate of soda with small amounts of bleach. Add the bleach gradually until the mixture forms a thick paste.
Caution: Be careful not to spill the bleach mixture on the metal frame of the washer, as it may cause rust.
Step 4: Clean the Seal
Open the door of your front-load washer and carefully wipe the seal clean, removing any debris or grime.
Dry the seal thoroughly with a cloth.
Using gloves, apply the bicarbonate and bleach paste directly onto the mould spots on the seal. Cover the affected areas well, but be gentle to avoid damaging the rubber.
Step 5: Let the Paste Sit
Allow the paste to sit on the seal for 3-4 hours. The paste will help break down the mould.
Important: Be cautious not to get the paste in your eyes or spill it on the washer’s metal frame.
Step 6: Wash Away the Paste
After 3-4 hours, wash away the paste from the seal using a clean cloth and water.
Run a Long Cycle: Set your washer to the longest cycle with a temperature of over 60°C and run it without any clothes inside. This will help clean out any residue.
Repeat the Wash Cycle: Run another long cycle to ensure all bleach and paste are completely removed from the washer.
Step 7: Wash Whites First If there’s any remaining bleach residue, run a wash with only white clothes to avoid damaging your colored garments.
Step 8: Prevent Future Mould Build-Up To reduce the chances of mould returning, always leave the door slightly ajar to allow the seal to dry between washes. You may also want to wipe down the seal regularly to keep it clean.
Step 9: Need a Full Seal Replacement? While this cleaning process may lessen the mould, it won’t entirely eliminate it. If you want to remove the mould completely, you may need to replace the door seal.
If you would like us to do this:
Provide your washer’s make and model.
We’ll give you a quote, order the required parts, and perform the replacement during our visit, ensuring a first-time fix.
Disclaimer: This advice is for general guidance only. Proceeding with these steps is at your own risk. Electrical or gas work must only be carried out by a licensed, trained technician.
Clothes Dryer: Standard
- How to Fix Clothes That Are Still Wet After Drying
Step 1: Unplug the Dryer For safety, unplug your dryer from the power supply before performing any maintenance.
Step 2: Check If the Dryer is Heating Up To check if your dryer is heating properly:
Set the dryer to a regular heat cycle for 30 minutes.
Let the dryer run for 10 minutes and then open the door.
Feel for heat inside the drum. Is it warm? If yes, the dryer is heating properly.
Step 3: Clean the Filters If the dryer is heating but clothes are still wet:
Check and clean your dryer’s filters, including the lint filter and any other air filters.
Blocked filters can restrict airflow, making it harder for the dryer to do its job.
Step 4: Test the Dryer After cleaning the filters, plug the dryer back in and run another cycle. If the clothes dry properly, the issue was likely just a blocked filter.
Disclaimer: This advice is for general guidance only. Proceeding with these steps is at your own risk. Electrical or gas work must only be carried out by a licensed, trained technician. - How to Fix Clothes That Are Still Wet After Drying (Step 2)
Step 1: Unplug the Dryer For safety, unplug your dryer from the power supply before performing any maintenance.
Step 2: Check the Air Intake and Ventilation
Check the Air Intake: Ensure that the air intake for the dryer is not blocked by lint, dust, or debris. A blocked intake can restrict airflow, preventing proper drying.
Check for Sufficient Space Around the Dryer: Make sure there’s enough space around the dryer for proper ventilation. If it’s too close to the wall or in a cramped area, airflow can be limited.
Step 3: Inspect the Rear Panel and Vent
If your dryer is positioned against the wall, carefully pull it away from the wall to inspect the rear panel.
Look for a vent at the back of the dryer. Is it blocked with dust or lint?
Clean the dust and any debris from the vent to ensure proper airflow.
Step 4: Test the Dryer Once everything is cleaned and clear, plug the dryer back in and run another cycle to see if the clothes dry properly.
Disclaimer: This advice is for general guidance only. Proceeding with these steps is at your own risk. Electrical or gas work must only be carried out by a licensed, trained technician. - What to Do If Clothes Are Still Wet After Steps 1 & 2
Step 1: Unplug the Dryer For safety, unplug your dryer from the power supply before performing any maintenance.
Step 2: Check Your Washing Machine
Is Your Washer Fully Spinning Out Water? After your washer completes its cycle, check if the clothes are still wet or if they’ve been fully spun out.
If the clothes are still heavily wet after the spin cycle, your washer may not be spinning out all the water, which can cause issues in the dryer.
Step 3: Understand the Impact
Washing machines that don’t fully spin out the water will leave clothes wetter than usual, which makes it harder for the dryer to dry them properly.
If this is the case, inspect the washer’s spin cycle to ensure it’s functioning correctly. You may need to check the washer’s drain pump, filter, or spin cycle settings.
Step 4: Test Again Once you ensure the washer is spinning properly, run the dryer again to check if the clothes dry faster.
Disclaimer: This advice is for general guidance only. Proceeding with these steps is at your own risk. Electrical or gas work must only be carried out by a licensed, trained technician. - What to Do If the Dryer is Not Heating After Steps 1, 2 & 3
Step 1: Unplug the Dryer For safety, unplug your dryer from the power supply before making any adjustments.
Step 2: Locate the Safety Reset Button
Check the Rear of the Dryer: Look for a small red or white button on the back of the dryer.
If you find the button, press it firmly. You should hear a click. This button is a safety device that activates when the dryer overheats, cutting off power to the heating element.
If You Can’t Find the Button on the Rear: Open the dryer door and check the door frame for a red button.
Step 3: Clean the Filters
Clean all filters before testing the dryer again. Blocked filters can cause overheating or prevent the dryer from heating properly.
Step 4: Test the Dryer Again After resetting the button and ensuring the filters are clean, plug the dryer back in and run a test cycle to see if the heating function works.
Disclaimer: This advice is for general guidance only. Proceeding with these steps is at your own risk. Electrical or gas work must only be carried out by a licensed, trained technician. - What to Do If the Dryer is Still Not Heating After Steps 1-4
Step 1: Unplug the Dryer For safety, unplug your dryer from the power supply before taking any further action.
Step 2: Call for Professional Service
If none of the previous steps resolve the issue, it’s likely that there’s an underlying problem with the dryer that requires professional attention.
Give us a call to schedule a service. We will need to attend the site to properly diagnose the issue and perform any necessary repairs.
Disclaimer: This advice is for general guidance only. Proceeding with these steps is at your own risk. Electrical or gas work must only be carried out by a licensed, trained technician.
Clothes Dryer: Heat Pump or Condenser
- Sensor Setting Not Working: Unplug/Disconnect Dryer from power supply. Is your dryer auto sensor not working? Does it turn off after 10 minutes or maybe the clothes are not fully dry at the end of the dry cycle?
- Check and clean your filter located by opening the door and removing the filter, open and wash the filter ensuring you can see through the microfibre. Look into the hole where you removed the filter and clean out any dust you can see. Use a toothbrush and vacuum cleaner or damp cloth. Thoroughly clean the vents and ensure clean.
- Open the condenser flap located on the front bottom left side of the dryer. Some flaps press to open, others pull down and others have a button located on the control panel. Open the flap and remove the filter, if you have a removable condenser, pull it out. Thoroughly clean this filter and condenser with water and ensure clean. Look inside where the filter and condenser were sitting and clean out the dust you can see. Refit all filters.
- Look on the rear of the condenser dryer and see if there is a press button? Press the button firmly.
- Plug your dryer back in, grab a wet towel that has been wet and spun out with your washer. Set a auto-cycle and run dryer. This should fix your issues. Monitor the towel at the end of the cycle. If dryer still turns off too early, you will need to schedule a service call. Contact us to book a service. (Disclaimer: This is general advice only and proceeding with this advice is done at your own risk, electrical and gas works MUST only be done by a licenced trained technician)
Dishwasher
- Dishwasher not cleaning: Unplug/Disconnect Dishwasher from power supply. The most common reason a dishwasher does not clean is blocked filters and spray arms. Remove your filter, located down the inside bottom of the dishwasher. It is important to remove all the components. There are generally at least two (2) filters. A mesh filter and a metal plate. Scrub both filters, don’t just rinse them. Ensure you can see through the microfibre filter and the mesh filter tiny holes are not blocked. Refit the filters and ensure secure. Now take a look at your spray arms. Are any of the holes blocked? Did you know that just 2 blocked holes is enough to stop a spray arm from turning. Bottom spray arms simply pull upward in most cases but refer to your user manual on how to remove them. Top spray arms either pull down or have a locking clip, again refer to your user manual on how to remove. Flush and wash out the spray arms but for easier cleaning, give them a good shake to ensure water is out and then using a vacuum cleaner, place the hose over the large hole and suck out any blockages. For tuff blockages you may have to push a small toothpick into the holes to dislodge the blockages. When both arms are clean, refit them as per your manual and test in cycle or follow step 2. (Disclaimer: This is general advice only and proceeding with this advice is done at your own risk, electrical and gas works MUST only be done by a licenced trained technician)
- Dishwasher not cleaning: Unplug/Disconnect Dishwasher from power supply. If step one doesn’t work or you want to cover all basis before testing, then align both arms inside the dishwasher, close the soap dispenser door and set a quick wash cycle. Ensure there are NO dishes in the dishwasher. Start the cycle and leave running for 15 – 20 minutes. After 15 – 20 minutes open the door of the dishwasher and inspect firstly if there is any heat in the dishwasher, secondly if the spray arms have moved position. See next steps and select the one that suits. (Disclaimer: This is general advice only and proceeding with this advice is done at your own risk, electrical and gas works MUST only be done by a licenced trained technician)
- One Spray arm only Moved Position or No Spray Arm Movied Position: Unplug/Disconnect Dishwasher from power supply. If when checking spray arms you find that one arm has moved but the other has not, or both arms have failed to move position, then you will need to contact us for service. There are two main causes, one being the diverter motor and the other being the motor capacitor. We will need to attend site to determine cause. (Disclaimer: This is general advice only and proceeding with this advice is done at your own risk, electrical and gas works MUST only be done by a licenced trained technician)
- Not Heating: Unplug/Disconnect Dishwasher from power supply. If your dishwasher is not heating, there is very little you can do to rectify this issue. You will need to contact us for a service call so we can attend site and diagnose the cause. This could be as simple as a temperature sensor or heating element or more costly such as a control issue. (Disclaimer: This is general advice only and proceeding with this advice is done at your own risk, electrical and gas works MUST only be done by a licenced trained technician)
- Soap Not Dissolving or Left In Dispenser: Unplug/Disconnect Dishwasher from power supply. Check steps 1 – 4 as they can cause soap dispenser issues. Other issues can be obstruction of the dispenser of large trays or dishes stopping the dispenser fully opening. Make sure when you pack the dishwasher, there is nothing stopping the dispenser from opening fully or water from the spray arms aiming water into the dispenser. (Disclaimer: This is general advice only and proceeding with this advice is done at your own risk, electrical and gas works MUST only be done by a licenced trained technician)
- Still having issues with not cleaning and steps 1 – 5 are all ok? Unplug/Disconnect Dishwasher from power supply. Try stack your dishes further apart and play with the stacking. This could be as simple as Austrian plates in a European Dishwasher. Ensure nothing is touching and do not overfill the dishwasher. For further assistance, book in a service call with us so we can help diagnose the issue. (Disclaimer: This is general advice only and proceeding with this advice is done at your own risk, electrical and gas works MUST only be done by a licenced trained technician)
Cooktop: Electric
- Cooktop Won’t Turn On: Go to your electrical box and check the safety switch or circuit breaker is on. If this is off, switch on and test cooktop. If you cooktop still won’t turn on, refer to Step 2. (Disclaimer: This is general advice only and proceeding with this advice is done at your own risk, electrical and gas works MUST only be done by a licenced trained technician)
- Cooktop Wont’ Turn On: Do you have a on/off switch on the wall located near the cooktop. Is this turned off? Turn it on. If your cooktop still won’t turn on, please call us to book in a service call so we can attend and diagnose the issue. (Disclaimer: This is general advice only and proceeding with this advice is done at your own risk, electrical and gas works MUST only be done by a licenced trained technician)
- One (1) Element Won’t Work: If all other elements are working and one is not working then likely either the element is blown or the control switch is faulty. You will need to book a service call for us to attend and diagnose the issue. (Disclaimer: This is general advice only and proceeding with this advice is done at your own risk, electrical and gas works MUST only be done by a licenced trained technician)
- Cooktop Markings Worn Away or Fading: Ceramic cooktops have white markings around the element areas that are embedded into the glass. They can not be washed away or scrapped off. Click HERE to purchase Cerapol Ceramic Cleaner and HERE to purchase Cerapol Ceramic Silicone Sealer for your cooktop. It will take a bit of elbow work but use the cleaner to clean the ceramic glass, use round and round cleaning motion in small areas at a time. This will bring the glass up looking almost like new. When the glass is clean and you can see the original element marks, use the Cerapol Silicone Sealer to protect the glass from spillage. Follow directions on the bottle for further advice. For stubborn marks you may want to purchase a Cerapol Cooktop Scraper from HERE. Follow the instructions for using the scraper per the manufacturer. (Disclaimer: This is general advice only and proceeding with this advice is done at your own risk, electrical and gas works MUST only be done by a licenced trained technician)
Cooktop: Gas
- All Cooktop Burners Wont Ignite: The most common reason I see for all the cooktop burners not igniting is the plug top being slightly pulled out or the switch turned off. There are two options to check this. Do you have a on/off switch for the cooktop on the wall located near the cooktop? Check to ensure this is on. Secondly look in the cupboard to the right or the left of the cooktop. A good gas installer will place the plug for the cooktop in an adjacent cupboard. Be sure to move any items out the way. Is the plug top pulled out or switched off. Refit plug top or switch on. If this still doesn’t fix the issue, go to step 2. (Disclaimer: This is general advice only and proceeding with this advice is done at your own risk, electrical and gas works MUST only be done by a licenced trained technician)
- All Cooktop Burners Wont Ignite: Go to your electrical switch board and ensure all Power Switches are in the on position. If not, switch on and test cooktop. If still not working go to step 3. (Disclaimer: This is general advice only and proceeding with this advice is done at your own risk, electrical and gas works MUST only be done by a licenced trained technician)
- All Cooktop Burners Won’t Ignite: Do you have gas? Go to your gas bottle and check it is full, switch to full gas bottle if empty. Return to cooktop and bleed gas through. It may take a few minutes to light if bottle was empty. Go to step 4 if still won’t ignite. (Disclaimer: This is general advice only and proceeding with this advice is done at your own risk, electrical and gas works MUST only be done by a licenced trained technician)
- We are unable to assist further here with advice. You will need to contact us for a service so we can attend site and determine the cause of the issue. (Disclaimer: This is general advice only and proceeding with this advice is done at your own risk, electrical and gas works MUST only be done by a licenced trained technician)
- One Burner on Cooktop Won’t Ignite: The most common issue here is a blocked jet. Remove the removable parts of the burner. If you have to use tools, you are removing the wrong parts. The removable parts can be done by hand. Look for the copper hexagon with the tiny hole in the middle. Find a pin or needle and push into the hole to clean the hole. Refit the burner parts and test if now working. If this fails to work, you will need to call us to determine the issue as we can not give further advice. (Disclaimer: This is general advice only and proceeding with this advice is done at your own risk, electrical and gas works MUST only be done by a licenced trained technician)
Oven: Electric
- Oven Won’t Turn On (Digital Clock On/Mechanical Timer): The most common reason an oven won’t switch on has to do with the clock or timer on the oven. In majority of times the clock must be set or the manual timer must be in the on position or pointing to the manual hand function. For mechanical timers, simply turn the timer on and check if the oven works. For digital clock ovens please refer to your user manual for setting the time. If after you have tried this and the oven still does not work, go to step 2. (Disclaimer: This is general advice only and proceeding with this advice is done at your own risk, electrical and gas works MUST only be done by a licenced trained technician)
- Oven Won’t Turn On (Digital Clock Off/Mechanical Timer): If your digital clock is not lighting up or after you have turned your mechanical timer the oven still won’t turn on, then likely the power has tripped in the oven. There could be a reason for this. Go to your electrical box and switch on the oven circuit. Test the oven and see if it is now working. If your oven turns on, monitor the oven as there could be a element fault. Should the oven trip again, you will need to call us to attend and determine the issue with the oven. (Disclaimer: This is general advice only and proceeding with this advice is done at your own risk, electrical and gas works MUST only be done by a licenced trained technician)
- There is very little else you can do with repairs to the oven. Please call us on (07) 5330 0068 so we can attend and diagnose the issue with your oven.
Oven: Gas
- Gas Oven Won’t Ignite: If you gas oven won’t ignite, check your gas bottle is full, swap to a full gas bottle. Remember it can take a few minutes to bleed the gas through when you swap bottles. If this does work, go to step 2 (Disclaimer: This is general advice only and proceeding with this advice is done at your own risk, electrical and gas works MUST only be done by a licenced trained technician)
- Gas Oven Won’t Ignite: If you tried step one and your bottle was full, check if you can hear a clicking noise when igniting the oven. The spark ignitor should spark to start the flame. Check the oven how power, go to your switchboard and ensure the power is on to the oven. If the power if on, go to step 3. (Disclaimer: This is general advice only and proceeding with this advice is done at your own risk, electrical and gas works MUST only be done by a licenced trained technician)
- Due to the nature and dangers of Gas and the laws in QLD, we are unable to give any further advice and you will need to contact us to book in a service.
Free Standing Oven: Dual Fuel (Gas Cooktop & Electric Oven)
- Nothing Works: There are a few options when nothing works. If you have no oven, no cooktop and no digital clock, then likely you have no power to the oven itself. Go to the electrical board and check if the oven circuit breaker is turned on. If not, switch to on. If your safety switch is already on, return to the oven and ensure the wall switch for the oven is in the on position. If that is on or you don’t have a wall switch, check behind the oven or in an adjacent cupboard and ensure the plug top is on if plugged in. In some cases the oven will be hard wired and there will be no wall plug. If you have checked these basics and there is nothing wrong, then you will need to call us to book a service on (07) 5330 0068 (Disclaimer: This is general advice only and proceeding with this advice is done at your own risk, electrical and gas works MUST only be done by a licenced trained technician)
- Oven Works/Cooktop Doesn’t ignite: If you oven is working fine, but your cooktop won’t ignite, check your gas supply. Do you have a full gas bottle? If not, swap to a full gas bottle. Remember to bleed the gas as it may take 2 – 3 minutes to get from the bottle to the oven. (Disclaimer: This is general advice only and proceeding with this advice is done at your own risk, electrical and gas works MUST only be done by a licenced trained technician)
- Cooktop Works/Oven does not work: If your gas cooktop is working fine but the oven does not work, then likely the digital clock is not set or the oven timer is not in the manual position. Digital Clock: Set your clock time, you will have to refer to your user manual on how to set the clock. Most new ovens will not operate when the clock does not work as they run the automatic setting through the clock. After setting the clock, see if the oven works. Manual Timer: If your oven has a manual timer, make sure that the timer is on, or the timer is set to the manual operation position. In many ovens, unless the timer is on, or set to manual the oven will not work. If you have checked both the timer and digital clock and the oven still does not work, then you will need to contact us for attendance to your premises to diagnose the issue with your oven.
- One Burner on Cooktop Won’t Ignite, Oven and other Burners Work Fine: The most common issue here is a blocked jet. Remove the removable parts of the burner. If you have to use tools, you are removing the wrong parts. The removable parts can be done by hand. Look for the copper hexagon with the tiny hole in the middle. Find a pin or needle and push into the hole to clean the hole. Refit the burner parts and test if now working. If this fails to work, you will need to call us to determine the issue as we can not give further advice. (Disclaimer: This is general advice only and proceeding with this advice is done at your own risk, electrical and gas works MUST only be done by a licenced trained technician)
- Due to Gas laws in QLD and the dangers of Gas we are unable to give any further advice. You will need to contact us to book a service call to your house for a repair.
Fridges/Freezers/Chest Freezers/Wine Cooler/Drinks Cool/Wine Fridge
- Fridge or Freezer not cold: The most common reason for a fridge or a freezer not cooling is the fridge/freezer fails to do a defrost or the drain ices over causing the unit to ice up. This ice forms in the rear of the fridge/freezer and generally can not be seen without removing panels. (We do not recommend you remove panels). The easiest way to see if this is a defrost issue, is to turn the fridge/freezer off for 24 hours with door(s) wide open. Switch the unit back on and see what happens. If your fridge/freezer works, then likely it is a defrost issue. Allow 6 hours after turning on for the fridge/freezer to cool down correctly. If the unit now works, monitor for a few weeks and DO NOT do a big shop. There could potentially be a defrost issue and this may re-occur within 14 days. If problem re-occurs, give us a call on (07) 5330 0068 to book in a service call. (Disclaimer: This is general advice only and proceeding with this advice is done at your own risk, electrical and gas works MUST only be done by a licenced trained technician)
- Water Droplets on Glass or Food Or Containers: Check first for any damage to the door seal, if there are any rips or tears, the door seal will need to be replaced. If this is ok, move to step 3, if this seal is damaged then call us on (07) 5330 0068 to schedule a service call. (Disclaimer: This is general advice only and proceeding with this advice is done at your own risk, electrical and gas works MUST only be done by a licenced trained technician)
- Water Droplets on Glass or Food or Containers: This is caused by the door seal not sealing. Close the door on your fridge/freezer and visually look around the seal, does it seal all the way around? Are there any gaps? If there are gaps, you can use a hair dryer on Hot setting and with the door closed, heat the seal around the area where the seal is not sealing. Very light using a blunt object, push the seal towards the fridge/freezer cabinet to close the gap. Make sure the seal is hot. Then turn off the hair dryer and hold the seal tight against the cabinet with your blunt object. When the seal cools, it should stay sealed. If this does not work, then you will need to call us to attend as we may need to lift and adjust the door, or the seal may need to be replaced. In most cases we can repair the sealing as long as there is no damage to the seal. (Disclaimer: This is general advice only and proceeding with this advice is done at your own risk, electrical and gas works MUST only be done by a licenced trained technician)
- Door Seal won’t seal: See step 2 and follow the same instructions, also check the seal is not damaged or torn or ripped.
Something Else?
If you would like advice over the phone on other appliance issues or discuss an issue further, Please call (07) 5330 0068 and I will endeavour to assist where I can. (Disclaimer: This is general advice only and proceeding with this advice is done at your own risk, we are unable to give any electrical or gas advice under the law)
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